Zeleni Venac

Zeleni Venac doubles up as one of Belgrade’s main transport hubs, with many city buses starting or ending their routes here. As such it is always a hub of activity at all times of the day and night, but the real business takes place early in the morning. The Stari Grad area was initially supposed to house the National Theatre, but the ground was too marshy for the structure to be built.

Zeleni Venac is the oldest green market still working in the city, celebrating its 170th year in 2017. It is worth visiting as much for the history as it is for the produce, because in many ways it tells the story of modern Serbia. The name comes from a kafana that was once open, although in its place today is a branch of McDonald’s.